Pot-au-feu (trans. “pot on the fire“) is another classic French stew which essentially consists of boiled meat and vegetables. Like garbure and cassoulet, there are many, many variations but it comes down to meat, vegetables, some herbs/spices, water and time. Jacques Pépin has demonstrated several versions of this dish over the years including one with a chicken which I’ve taken to making as well. If you want his exact recipe, your best bet would be to purchase a copy of Jacques and Julia: Cooking at Home; it is a worthwhile addition to the home library (and the series is also available on DVD).

This recipe actually isn’t quick since it takes more than 2 hours to prep and cook. However, it doesn’t take a whole lot of effort (or dexterity/brain power) either since the entire process consists of boiling everything in one pot.

My version of this poached chicken eliminates the typical herbs found in a bouquet garni and replaces with aromatics which are better complements to the vegetables I selected. Why star anise and kombu? The former boosts the perception of a “meaty” taste while kombu is “hidden flavoring” – it’s packed with glutamate and will significantly up the umami quotient within the broth. It’s also undetectable as its presence is masked by the other ingredients.

Ingredients

• one large whole chicken (I prefer using capons in the 3 kg range)
• one small whole Savoy cabbage (approximately 500 g)
• 500 g each parsnips, carrots, button mushrooms (all cleaned but left whole)
• 1 leek, cleaned
• 3 ribs celery (optional)
• 2 yellow onions
• 1 piece kombu
• 1 star anise
• 2 cloves
• 1 bay leaf
• 12 peppercorns

Preparation

Wash chicken. Remove any gizzard/heart/liver and set aside for another use. Place kombu and spices into a piece of cheesecloth and tie shut; place spice packet in the cavity of the chicken. Tie bird with butcher twine so that it sits compactly.

Times quoted are for a 3 kg capon, the vegetables listed and a 16 L stock pot. Adjust as necessary for smaller/larger quantities.

Place chicken in a pot large enough to hold both the chicken and the vegetables and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, skimming off any foam that develops. Once the pot comes to a boil, turn down heat and gently simmer for 45 minutes. Add the whole Savoy cabbage to the pot, bring temperature back up until the pot is back at a gentle simmer. Continue to cook for another 30 minutes. Add remaining vegetables except mushrooms and simmer for 15 minutes. Add mushrooms and simmer for 10 minutes, then cover pot, turn off heat and allow contents to poach in hot liquid for another 30 minutes.

Service

If everything is done correctly you will have one properly poached chicken, cooked but not mushy vegetables and clear broth.

To serve, portion out the chicken and vegetables and ladle a little hot broth over to keep the dish moist. Serve with coarse salt, pepper and sour cornichons. The remaining broth may be served alongside or retained for another use.

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